My Electric Longboard Build – BOM

While I was creating my first build and began to put my first working prototype together, I figured I would document my parts, their prices, and explain why I chose them. I’ve split up the BOM into two parts, the electric longboard components and the board components which are usable on their own for a normal longboard. I decided to go with a single motor design for my first build (it seems fairly trivial to add a second motor in the future) and so far it’s been handling pretty well on hills. The only downside is that sometimes if I lean all the way to the left, the right back wheel comes off the ground slightly and I lose the driving traction. For more info about the trade-offs, check out my previous post.

The way a typical electric longboard works is, you (the rider) use the transmitter to speed up or slow down. The transmitter interacts with a receiver that is hooked up to the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) which interprets the signal and turns it into a motor signal. The ESC needs to be hooked up to the battery for power since the ESC is what drives the motor. The motor then turns a gear which is hooked up to a belt that will then turn another gear that is attached to your wheel. This is how your longboard will gain movement.

ElectricLongboardDiagram

 

Electric Longboard Components
$70 – 5065 170kV sensored brushless DIYElectricSkateboard motor with 8mm wide and 35mm long shaft
5065 designates the size of the motor and is a common size for electric longboards although they typically have a smaller shaft. 170kV designates the torque the motor can produce (the smaller the number the higher the torque, but the lesser it’s top speed).
motor
$25 – Wiiceiver – (Not needed if you are using the VESC)
 A way to control the input to the ESC coming from the wii nunchuck
wiiceiver
 Has a better feel and is less bulky than a traditional RC controller.wii-controller
$110 + $20 – VESC
I found someone with experience making them and bought one but it needed to be custome made and shipped to me. The extra $20 is because I had to solder on wires and 2200uf 63V capacitor myself.
PCB_Front-1024x683
I used this in the interim while I was waiting from my VESC to be made and shipped to me. With some configuration it turned out to work decently well. I was able to ride it on flat or a slight incline, but with less power and it would cut off if the motor started to draw too much power. 
mambamaxpro
They were a lot cheaper than the 6S1P 5000mah batteries and have decent power and capacity.
5S1PBatteries
DIYElectricSkateboard sells an aluminum part for the motor pulley and I figured that since it’s the part coming off the motor shaft and is only connected by two set screws, it makes sense to get this part made of aluminum to handle the stress.
FREE – 15mm width 36 tooth wheel pulley (3D-printed it myself)
Originally based off a 9mm pulley model, I had to add bigger holes for stronger screws and a couple other changes. I will link to the design I put together for this part once I’ve tested it and made it fit reliably.
OrangatangPulley
$10 – 8mm width 280mm length HTD5 belt
15mm width is better than the 8mm width belt due to it’s wider area and less likelihood of snapping, but an 8mm belt allows for some leeway in alignment.
$5 – 5x M5 x 70mm bolts + washers + nyloc nuts for the wheel mount
These come in a lot more usually than only 5, but it doesn’t hurt to have more just in case.
This works out well and is made of aluminum. This can be replaced with a cheaper non-adjustable mount, but I didn’t like the idea of welding on a mount to my longboard trucks and had not ability to do the welding.
MotorMount
Subtotal: $400

Board Components
I chose these due to the holes in the hub of the wheels that could hold screws in order to mount a gear through.
orangatang_kegel
Due to my choice of wheels, these had to be altered in order to fit them (I used a file to make a bit of room for the screws that hold the gear onto the wheel) If I were to do this again, I might try the Paris trucks since they are more symmetrical.
caliber2fifty
These are some of the better bearings and ride really smoothly.
bonesredsbearings
$100 – Board of your choice
Subtotal: $224

Total $510 with new wheels and trucks on an old longboard
Total $624 from scratch

Buy vs. Build a 3D Printer

I have been spending part of my spare time working slowly to get my Prusa i3 built and I am just now finishing the build. I’ve run into multiple problems throughout the experience and thought I would let you in on some of the frustrations. Here are some of those issues to keep in mind:

  • Sourcing all of the metric vs. inches components. Make sure that if you pick one, you stick with it for all the parts or be prepared to figure out which parts will require updates to the .scad files since they will need to be altered to fit your custom components. (Hint: metric is easier for following instructions but harder to source in the US)
  • While your dimensions may be right in the scad file, once printed, they may not match exactly to your specifications and may need to be reprinted.
  • There are many different models for each 3D printed part based on individual scenarios. If you are following instructions for a build, try to use their parts/print designs.
  • There are plenty of options for every component from the the hot-end to the extruder, bolts, rails, etc. and this makes sourcing the right 3D printed parts with the right bolts, nuts, etc. a lot more cumbersome than I initially expected.

Final Thoughts:

If you want to get the experience of building a 3D printer on your own or getting a cheaper 3D printer, the best solution is to buy a kit and then build it. You can alter most designs later to suit your desires. Since most kits for a Prusa i3 use the same Arduino Mega and RAMPS board setup, the software to control add-ons is pretty simple to change.

Now that I have gone through the process of sourcing and building my own, I wish I had just bought a kit and assembled all of those parts myself in order to save myself time, money, and frustration.